The truth about vitamin C: what it does, how to use it, and how to choose the right formula for you.
Before adding another step to your routine, take a moment to assess what your skin needs. Vitamin C can do a lot, but only if your skin barrier is ready.
Spring has a way of making us want to refresh everything, including our skincare routines. One ingredient that rises in popularity this time of year is vitamin C, often positioned as a warm weather staple thanks to its antioxidant properties. But a new season doesn’t automatically mean your skin needs new actives.
Before reaching for vitamin C, it’s worth asking yourself: does your skin need it right now?
Why vitamin C trends every spring
With its reputation for boosting radiance and tackling free radical damage, vitamin C is a natural addition to a spring skincare routine. But its popularity isn’t just seasonal marketing. “It’s a fascinating multi-tasking active ingredient and one of the most extensively documented in dermatology,” explains Claire Douhailly, beauty journalist at ELLE France. “It participates in collagen synthesis and has a beneficial action in reducing dark spots along with helping to partially combat the daily environmental aggressions we face.”
In simple terms, vitamin C helps defend, brighten and support the skin over time. Its long list of benefits makes it a constant favourite for dermatologists. “In principle, you can start using it early, from your twenties as a preventative measure, and all year round,” adds Douhailly. “In the summer, it’s particularly interesting for combatting UV damage, however, it doesn’t replace sunscreen—it works as a compliment to it.”
What vitamin C can—and can’t do—for your skin
While vitamin C is undeniably effective, it’s not a universal fix. It won’t automatically improve every routine, especially if your skin is compromised.
The formula itself matters more than many people realise. “The form of vitamin C used is crucial,” says Douhailly. “Active vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) is highly unstable, which is why brands often offer formulas with vitamin C powder to be mixed at the last moment with a serum.”
There are also stabilised alternatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which are often better tolerated by sensitive skin, she explains. And because vitamin C is inherently unstable, it’s essential to know the signs of a formula that’s no longer effective. “If after a few days of use your product turns slightly brown in colour, there’s a strong chance that the vitamin C in the formula has oxidised and lost its effectiveness,” she notes.
Even the most effective and well-researched ingredient won’t work if your skin barrier is damaged. In fact, introducing vitamin C when your barrier is impaired can increase irritation, worsen sensitivity and slow down the skin’s ability to recover.
Before adding in a new active, assess how your skin feels and how it's behaving. “Vitamin C can be irritating, skin may tingle, redden or become uncomfortable,” says Douhailly. “In that case, it’s far better to space out applications to minimise irritation.” She also recommends stepping back and looking at your routine as a whole. Combining too many active ingredients—like AHA peels and retinol—alongside vitamin C can quickly lead to skin sensitivity.
If your face feels reactive or tight, it may not be the right time to introduce it. Focus first on hydration and barrier repair.
Whether it’s vitamin C, hyaluronic acid or ceramides, Noli’s AI skin diagnostic tool helps you navigate through the noise and prioritises what your skin needs most.
Should you add vitamin C to your routine?
If your skin feels stable and you’re looking to target dullness, uneven tone or protect your skin from aging, vitamin C can be a smart addition.
When choosing a product, Douhailly suggests keeping it simple:
- Serums over creams: It can be added to any routine without disrupting it.
- Start gently: If you’re new to the ingredient or have reactive skin, consider starting with a lower percentage, using it just a few times per week, and gradually building up frequency as your skin adjusts. Opting for formulas specifically designed for sensitive skin can also help minimise the risk of irritation.
- Balance your routine: Pair [your antioxidant serum] with a good moisturiser and oral vitamin C supplements. Finishing off your routine with an SPF is essential, as it helps protect the skin from UV damage while working in synergy with vitamin C’s antioxidant properties to defend against environmental stressors and prevent premature ageing.
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